After the pattern and material are decided, the problem of cutting out our quilt is next. This is conceded to be the least interesting and most tedious part of quilt making; however, it is certainly not a step that can be hurried as blocks must be cut exact. There is no alternative to this. The very week I am writing this there came a gingham diamond clear from Montana to me in Missouri, from a woman asking, “What’s wrong with this pattern I got from a friend – it won’t make a blazing star”! And indeed it would not; the angle was too acute. Eight of them would sew together like a saucer, and no two sides of the diamonds were alike in length, the shortest varying from the longest by 5/8 inch!
In the patterns here given the angles and curves have been determined. Lengths are fairly accurate, although seam allowances may vary, and it does make a difference where a certain piece is due to fit. Two triangles, equal sides together should be cut equal, but a triangle against a square of equal length will finish a seam narrow at each end unless extra allowance is made on the triangle. We suggest that you lay tissue paper over the cutting pattern in the book, allow seams if you want the block to finish the size given, then make up one test block.
You may have to change the relation of pattern sides in some cases before transferring your proven patterns onto the cardboards which will be traced around for marking out all parts. It is a matter of preference again whether your master cardboards be the cutting or sewing size. Some like to cut on the pencil line and gauge their seams back from this. Others prefer to cut a seam out from lines which are penciled onto the wrong side of the cloth, then sew back on these lines assuring exact finished sizes. Blotting paper makes excellent patterns for marking around on any cloth that slips easily, as it clings. Keep all angles sharp: Many an old-time pattern has gradually changed in character and name by being marked around until the points wore down into curves, or shallow curves into deeper ones.
True bias and edges cut with the weave are imperative for right triangle sides, and on equiangular triangles one side must be with the weave. Squares and oblongs must be with the weave of course. In all of our ready cut quilts this is accurately followed. The center threads in the rays of the “Rising Sun” run directly from center base to apex. After one sample block is correctly made it is often advantageous to cut or tear the quilt borders from yardage before cutting new material into block units. You know about the area of cloth one given block takes and can easily estimate enough of each color for the number of blocks required. Hence, border strips may be torn to require less piecing before cutting the blocks.
About one yard is required for binding a plain quilt, this cuts on the true bias into strips about 1 1/2 inches wide. Corners are left from this which also may be cut into block units. Allow 1 1/2 yards for binding scallop edge quilts. Cloth should be smooth to cut, so iron any wrinkled material before laying on the patterns. Hold the cardboard firmly in place, mark around evenly with pencil on light goods or with French chalk on dark colors. Draw a thread to straighten cloth when necessary, and cut very carefully. Inaccuracies in cutting are as fatal in their way in this operation as in the so-called “major operations”! And “lastly” cut economically; a thrifty cutter has mighty few scraps left after her patterns have been laid on to the best advantage.